Review

New Jersey has plenty of Italian delis with hot food behind the counter. La Costeñita is the Mexican version, serving up authentic tacos, tamales and moles, instead of sausage and peppers, veal parm and Sunday sauce.

Chicken Mole

Tucked in a shopping plaza just off Route 206 in Hillsborough, La Costeñita looks like a small grocery store. Shelves along the wall hold a variety of imported Mexican goods, from canned chipotles to cookies and candies. There’s a deli-style counter with soft cheeses and meats. The vegetable bins are filled with jalapeños and tomatillos.

To find the hardy Mexican fare, walk past the few tables in front, all the way to the tile counter in the back.  Sit on one of the four stools where you can see the day’s special bubbling away and watch the corn masa tortillas prepared fresh. Daily specials are posted, in Spanish. Ask some questions and the woman at the counter is happy to translate. There’s also a bilingual paper menu that includes various tortas (sandwiches), tacos (beef, spicy pork, chorizo, chicken tongue), sopes (thick tortilla ‘boats’), tamales, burritos and enchiladas. Weekend specials include Sopa de Mariscos (shellfish soup) and Panzita de Res (beef tripe soup).

Fresh Masa

The aromas are tantalizing. We ordered a few items to go. The Mole de Pollo (Chicken Mole) is served with an earthy and complex mole that packs a smoky punch. Decadent pork tamales with meat on the bone and spicy red chile sauce are excellent. The tacos are served in two soft homemade corn tortillas. Of the food we tried, only the torta, or sandwich, was disappointing. The bread is too thick, with skimpy fillings for my taste.

La Costeñita is worth a visit for cheap and hardy fare that reminds you of your Mexican abuela.

Links

Serious Eats

Tomatillos

Tacos @ La Costeñita

Review

Special Rolls

Morristown’s Sushi Lounge, a chain with two other NJ locations in Hoboken and Totowa, has black lacquered tables, a chic bar, and an elevated DJ booth. I’m sure many people go for the slick downtown vibe, but you should also go for some very good sushi and Japanese-inspired food.

There are actually two bars in this large, well-designed space, the bar and the sushi bar, each with counter seating. The sushi, sashimi, chirashi and rolls off the extensive sushi menu feature high quality, fresh fish. The rolls range from the usual spicy tuna and California (crabstick, avocado, cucumber and masago (capelin roe)) to the outlandish: Optimistic (tuna, salmon, avocado, masago and tempura flakes wrapped in soy paper), Spicy Banana Tempura and Jalapeno Salmon. The Angry Dragon roll I ordered (lobster, asparagus, mango and scallions topped with eel, avocado and spicy jalapeño-mango sauce) could have been angrier for my taste.

Japanese Risotto

The best dish we ate, however, was the “Japanese Risotto” appetizer, a fantastic mound of  lump crab, shrimp, shitake mushrooms, edamame & rice, flavored with parmesan cheese and truffle oil. Other winners are the Shrimp Shumai and Seared Scallops served on a flaming plate. Kitchen entrees on the menu include Salmon Katsu, teriyaki, ramen, udon and hibachi.

Fried Ice Cream

If you don’t mind the extra calories, try the dessert. Fried ice cream with three different sauces is very good, and popular with the kids.

Uni and Hamachi

Review

A Strawberry's pie with sausage and anchovies

Visit Strawberry’s Pub & Pizza in Woodbridge for their very popular bar pie pizzas. They serve a good thin crust with some black specks underneath. Not too thin to fold. The pies here are on the saucy side, with a tangy tomato sauce, and a nice variety of toppings including baby clams and jalapenos. Among bar pies overall, Strawberry’s version doesn’t rise to the flavor level of Star Tavern‘s, but it is a strong Middlesex County pizza contender. The menu includes some crazy concoctions like the “Hawaiian Pie.” I’ll try not to hold that against them.

The larger menu offers bar standard appetizers, sandwiches and burgers, as well as soups and salads. A friend and I visited after running this year’s Freezing Cold Hash Run. We only tried the pizza (and the beer). I hear the wings are also excellent. Another reason eat pizza here – the Strawberry’s frequent eater card can earn you a free pie.

Strawberry’s is a friendly spot on the side of the highway (Route 35, very close to the Turnpike, the Parkway and Route 287). There’s a large wrap-around bar, and some tables to eat in.

Links

Facebook

Jerk Chicken

Review

My mouth is still tingling from this plate of J & J Caribbean’s jerk chicken. Order the “small” portion and you get everything pictured above – wonderfully spicy-sweet jerk chicken pieces, rice and peas (beans), sweet plantains and some vegetables (mostly cabbage). The jerk spices here are hot, so be warned if you’re not used to it. I’m sure the roti (Caribbean meat and potato wrap) is just as good, but they had none when I visited.

It doesn’t get more hole-in-the-wall than this tiny Jamaican storefront on Valley Street in South Orange. The cash only menu is on the wall, there are maybe six small tables, and the display cases are empty, except for the one with an array of savory Jamaican patties – beef, chicken and veg – also spicy. The decor consists of a few old Jamaican posters. Clearly, the magic is taking place in the small hidden kitchen. Ask what’s available that day. On weekdays, J & J’s is filled with students from nearby Columbia High School snagging a quick patty for lunch. I wish my high school had served Jamaican food.

Chilean Pastel de Choclo

Review

Octopus (Pulpo) in Peruvian Pepper Sauce

You can find just about every South American cuisine somewhere in New Jersey. To try them all in one place, visit Cucharamama (“Mother spoon”) in Hoboken, where Cuban-born chef and historian Maricel Presilla offers both classic and reinterpreted versions of homestyle food from Peru, Venezuela, Colombia and beyond.

From the creative cocktails, through small plates and main dishes, Cucharamama’s menu ranges far and wide across the South American continent. There are Peruvian options, including pisco drinks, anticuchos (marinated, grilled meats and organs), cebiche (lime-marinated fish), and Picante de Camarones (shrimp in spicy pepper sauce); Venezuelan arepas and black bean stew; Argentinian empanadas and chorizo; Ecuadorian Sango de Choclo y Camarones (creamy corn and shrimp stew); Bolivian Saice (spicy braised beef), and Colombian tamales and Bandejita Paisa (meat lovers dinner platter). I think I even saw a Brazilian cod fritter. Presilla not only serves every South American country’s cuisine, but mixes them up. There are interesting ethnic mashups like Humitas Chilenas (Chilean Fresh Corn Tamal with Venezuelan Ají de Leche (Milk and Cilantro Sauce)) and the Amazónico – a cocktail combining Guatemalan aguardiente and lulo juice from the Ecuadorian Amazon.

Roast Chicken from the Wood-Burning Oven

The hearty fare from the kitchen is Latin American comfort food. Our group loved the tamales with pork crackling and sweet corn, the pulpo (octopus) in pepper sauce, and the roast chicken out of the wood-burning oven. The Pastel de Choclo Chileno, a chicken and pork pot pie, is a heartwarming, slightly sweet casserole. The creamy quinoa with potato and cheese (Quinoa Atamalada) side dish is absolutely delicious. The desserts also looked good, but we were just too full to partake.

The narrow room is nicely decorated with the warm colors and artwork of South America. Our only complaint with Cucharamama is the service. The restaurant is very popular, and gets crowded in the small Hoboken space. The servers are friendly, but visibly rushed. There’s a bit of a Miami Beach in Jersey vibe – pretty people in a hip place. The hostess on the night we visited was particularly clueless, more focussed on looking good than on managing the front of the house. She was unable to recommend a nearby bar when we arrived early and there was no room to wait inside.

With a history PhD, it’s not surprising that Presilla – a James Beard award nominee and White House guest chef – is a culinary ambassador, bringing Latin American history and culture to new audiences through food. She has written a history of cacao, and in addition to Cucharamama, owns nearby Zafra, devoted to Cuban cuisine, and Ultramarinos, a Latin American food emporium. It would be hard to find a better example of the ethnic diversity that makes New Jersey, its people, and its food, world class.

Links

New Jersey Monthly (Jul 2009)
New Jersey Monthly (Jan 2010)

Polpetti

Review

The "Atomica" Pizza

For Italian food or pizza with an ocean view, head to Stella Marina in Asbury Park. At the southern end of  the boardwalk (across from the old Carousel House), Stella Marina is an upscale restaurant and bar on two floors, with outdoor seating when the weather is good.

I only had lunch here, so I can’t speak for the entrees, but the antipasti and pizza I tried is worth a visit. The rest of the menu is probably just as good, given the positive web reviews I’ve seen. The Polpetti – tiny meatballs with provolone cheese served with tomato gravy on an iron skillet – are lightly seasoned; a nice antipasti choice. Other small plates include meats, cheeses, marinated vegetables and fish dishes, like Scampi Arrabiata and Cozze (beer poached mussels). Pasta, meat and fish main courses fill out the menu.

The pizzas here are individual, thin-crust, bar pies. The crust isn’t strong enough to pass the fold test, but has a nice flavor. Toppings are fresh and interesting. Fig (dry figs, caramelized onion, goat cheese) tempted me. I couldn’t resist the Atomica, however, topped with what I grew up calling hot Italian frying peppers. Stella Marina calls them “Calabrian chilies.” Whatever you call them, they’re an awesome pizza topping that’s spicy, but not overpowering.

I will definitely return to try more of Stella Marina’s food, or just for another Atomica.

Links

Chowhound
Yelp

The Mazzi Dog

Review

EthnicNJ's Guest Reviewer Hard at Work

Guest review by James L. Baker (age 12)

“Like unusual hot dogs? Go to Mazzi’s. Like fountain sodas? Go to Mazzi’s. Like 1950s/1960s nostalgia decor? Go to Mazzi’s.

Mazzi’s is located next to the Luna Stage theatre on Valley Street in West Orange, just past Gamburgers heading north.

The menu features specialty “Dogz” like the Holiday (mashed potato, stuffing & gravy), the Jersey Shore (hot or sweet onions, sweet peppers), and of course, the Mazzi dog (a sauerkraut, onion and mustard combo). The Mazzi dog is a darn good monstrosity. The spicy mustard and the onions burned my mouth a little; the whole dog was tasty. The hot dog is juicy and the outside just the tiniest bit crunchy, but not on the Rutt’s Hut level. I recommend it. The Texas Wiener (chili, raw onions, spicy mustard) is good, but the Texas component, a spicy chili, is too thick for me.

Mazzi’s serves fries (Mazzi Fries) with a special seasoning that tastes like a mellower version of Old Bay. The review team ordered a cherry and a vanilla Coke. We prefer the vanilla to the cherry.

The Holy Guacamole and Baked Potato "Dogz"

The service is nice, friendly and quick. It’s a casual and obviously kid-friendly spot. I recommend the Baked Potato dog (cheese, mashed potato, raw onions, sour cream & bacon bits) or the Mazzi dog, as well as some fries and vanilla Coke. This is a great place if you like toppings on your hot dogs.”

James was kind enough to bring me two Mazzi Dogz to try after his visit. The Holy Guacamole (chili, guacamole, crushed nacho chips) is pretty good. The Baked Potato dog is over-the-top, decadent delicious. How can you not try a place with a Wall of Famous New Jerseyans?

Mazzi's Wall of Famous New Jerseyans

Links

Orange you glad you ate in Orange?
You Don’t Know Jersey

Review

Filet Mignon Kebab with Basmati Rice

Persian food is unique within the broad category of “Middle Eastern” cuisine. Morristown’s Marjan is on the short but growing list of New Jersey restaurants serving authentic Persian specialties.

On the menu, you’ll find dolmeh (stuffed grape leaves), various kebabs (chicken, lamb, ground meat, filet mignon and even cornish hen), basmati rice dishes like Shirin Polo (with saffron, almonds, orange peel, carrots and pistachios), and hearty stews like Koresht-e-Fesenjoon (chicken with pomegranate sauce and crushed walnuts). The hummus we started with was less seasoned than we like it. The kebabs are much better, served with fluffy saffron-flavored rice. The slow cooked lamb shank braised in tomato sauce, however, was the big winner at our table.

Braised Lamb Shank

A comfortable spot with friendly service, Marjan is a small, family-run storefront that’s BYO. It’s easy to grab a bottle of wine a few stores down to enjoy with your meal.

Links

Chowhound
Morristown This Week
Morristown Patch

Photo by Michelle Stavrou

Review

Guest review by Michelle Stavrou (@JerseyGirlEats) of Jersey Girl Eats

Keftedakia (photo by Michelle Stavrou)

“Growing up in a half-Greek household taught me to be picky about what I consider exceptional Greek food.  I’ve eaten at a number of Greek restaurants in New Jersey, and I can easily say that Stamna in Bloomfield ranks near the top.

My husband and I met my parents for lunch at Stamna. The four of us decided to start with a variety of appetizers, then order main dishes if we were still hungry. First up was tzatziki, the popular yogurt cucumber dip.  Stamna’s version was creamy and had great flavor, a perfect accompaniment to the fresh pita bread.  We also ordered the Cypriot salad, though I’m fairly certain they brought us a regular Greek salad instead.  We didn’t even notice though, as the salad was packed with bright red tomatoes, cucumbers, olives and some of the best feta I’ve had. Along with the salad we got grape leaves (dolmadakia), meatballs (keftedakia), and cheese pies (tyropitakia).  The standouts were definitely the meatballs.  Crispy and well-seasoned, I had to restrain myself from finishing them off.  The individual cheese pies had a creamier filling than we were used to, but the taste was spot-on.

Tyropitakia (photo by Michelle Stavrou)

By the time we were polishing off the last of the tyropitakia, we knew we were too full to order any additional food.  One of the great things about Greek cuisine is the ability to make an entire meal from appetizers, giving you the ability to try a little bit of everything.  We’re already planning what we’re going to order next time.  I have a feeling it won’t be long before we work our way through the entire menu.”

Links

Baristanet
The New York Times
The Star-Ledger

Review

The Brick Lane Dining Room

Brick Lane brings the spirit and flavors of a British curry house to New Jersey at its Montclair location, opened in July. (The first two are in Manhattan.) I can easily see Brick Lane becoming part of our regular rotation for Indian food.

Past the “Mind the Gap” sign next to the door, the minimalist dining room features hardwood tables and some cool “colander” lighting.

British curry shops, originally serving the Bengali immigrants of London’s East End, focus on base sauces with spices added to make a variety of Masalas, Kormas and Vindaloos. Brick Lane offers an impressive list of curries served with lamb, chicken, goat, fish, shrimp, paneer (cheese), tofu or vegetables. There are also meat and breads from the tandoor clay oven. We grabbed some food to go earlier this month, and really enjoyed everything we tasted – a very spicy Madras Curry chicken; a yummy, also spicy, Biryani, rice dish flavored with whole cloves; well-made onion-chickpea fritters; a nicely charred Naan; and some tasty potato “veg. of the day” (Bombay Aloo). The Lunch Special and Lunch Box to go are a steal at $10 each.  Follow the links below to read about Brick Lane’s Phaal Curry challenge, which involves the infamous “Ghost Chile.”

Parking on this stretch of Valley Road can be tricky. Try the Foodtown lot down the block.

Links

Baristanet
Montclair Patch
Off the Broiler