Review

Filet Mignon Kebab with Basmati Rice

Persian food is unique within the broad category of “Middle Eastern” cuisine. Morristown’s Marjan is on the short but growing list of New Jersey restaurants serving authentic Persian specialties.

On the menu, you’ll find dolmeh (stuffed grape leaves), various kebabs (chicken, lamb, ground meat, filet mignon and even cornish hen), basmati rice dishes like Shirin Polo (with saffron, almonds, orange peel, carrots and pistachios), and hearty stews like Koresht-e-Fesenjoon (chicken with pomegranate sauce and crushed walnuts). The hummus we started with was less seasoned than we like it. The kebabs are much better, served with fluffy saffron-flavored rice. The slow cooked lamb shank braised in tomato sauce, however, was the big winner at our table.

Braised Lamb Shank

A comfortable spot with friendly service, Marjan is a small, family-run storefront that’s BYO. It’s easy to grab a bottle of wine a few stores down to enjoy with your meal.

Links

Chowhound
Morristown This Week
Morristown Patch

Photo by Michelle Stavrou

Review

Guest review by Michelle Stavrou (@JerseyGirlEats) of Jersey Girl Eats

Keftedakia (photo by Michelle Stavrou)

“Growing up in a half-Greek household taught me to be picky about what I consider exceptional Greek food.  I’ve eaten at a number of Greek restaurants in New Jersey, and I can easily say that Stamna in Bloomfield ranks near the top.

My husband and I met my parents for lunch at Stamna. The four of us decided to start with a variety of appetizers, then order main dishes if we were still hungry. First up was tzatziki, the popular yogurt cucumber dip.  Stamna’s version was creamy and had great flavor, a perfect accompaniment to the fresh pita bread.  We also ordered the Cypriot salad, though I’m fairly certain they brought us a regular Greek salad instead.  We didn’t even notice though, as the salad was packed with bright red tomatoes, cucumbers, olives and some of the best feta I’ve had. Along with the salad we got grape leaves (dolmadakia), meatballs (keftedakia), and cheese pies (tyropitakia).  The standouts were definitely the meatballs.  Crispy and well-seasoned, I had to restrain myself from finishing them off.  The individual cheese pies had a creamier filling than we were used to, but the taste was spot-on.

Tyropitakia (photo by Michelle Stavrou)

By the time we were polishing off the last of the tyropitakia, we knew we were too full to order any additional food.  One of the great things about Greek cuisine is the ability to make an entire meal from appetizers, giving you the ability to try a little bit of everything.  We’re already planning what we’re going to order next time.  I have a feeling it won’t be long before we work our way through the entire menu.”

Links

Baristanet
The New York Times
The Star-Ledger

Review

The Brick Lane Dining Room

Brick Lane brings the spirit and flavors of a British curry house to New Jersey at its Montclair location, opened in July. (The first two are in Manhattan.) I can easily see Brick Lane becoming part of our regular rotation for Indian food.

Past the “Mind the Gap” sign next to the door, the minimalist dining room features hardwood tables and some cool “colander” lighting.

British curry shops, originally serving the Bengali immigrants of London’s East End, focus on base sauces with spices added to make a variety of Masalas, Kormas and Vindaloos. Brick Lane offers an impressive list of curries served with lamb, chicken, goat, fish, shrimp, paneer (cheese), tofu or vegetables. There are also meat and breads from the tandoor clay oven. We grabbed some food to go earlier this month, and really enjoyed everything we tasted – a very spicy Madras Curry chicken; a yummy, also spicy, Biryani, rice dish flavored with whole cloves; well-made onion-chickpea fritters; a nicely charred Naan; and some tasty potato “veg. of the day” (Bombay Aloo). The Lunch Special and Lunch Box to go are a steal at $10 each.  Follow the links below to read about Brick Lane’s Phaal Curry challenge, which involves the infamous “Ghost Chile.”

Parking on this stretch of Valley Road can be tricky. Try the Foodtown lot down the block.

Links

Baristanet
Montclair Patch
Off the Broiler

Polish Specialties from Piast

Review

Martin Ryback of the Piast dynasty (NJ)

The flagship location of this specialty food market, Piast sells authentic Polish food, groceries and meals to go.

I’ve had takeout from the Maplewood location and at a recent GlobalSOMA event. Piast’s hearty fare is my Polish food benchmark: Handmade pierogi and dumplings with melted butter (over a dozen varieties, savory and sweet), homemade kielbasa from their own smoke pits (21 kinds!), and hot entrees like stuffed cabbage (gołąbki) and pork rollatini. Piast also makes its own cold cuts. Don’t miss the beef jerky.

Piast takes its name from the first Polish royal family. The Ryback family, immigrants from Southern Poland, opened their first location in Maplewood in 1991. Two Garfield markets - this one designed like a castle – serve the substantial Polish-American communities of Bergen County. (The second is at 800 River Drive.) Of course, you don’t have to be Polish to enjoy a nice kielbasa and plate of pierogi.

Review

Thin crust, nicely charred.

One of the original New York pizzeria’s serving thin crust pies cooked in a coal-fired oven, the Grimaldi’s franchise extends from the original location under the Brooklyn Bridge, to Manhattan, Queens, Hoboken (different owners), and beyond. We’ve had mixed experiences with Grimaldi’s pies in Brooklyn – they’re often too watery for my taste – but every spot deserves a try on its own merits. Even with the same recipe, ingredients and technique, I’m a big believer that the oven itself helps make a great pizza. (My favorite pizza place, DeLucia’s in Raritan, has been using the same brick oven since 1917.) The Highlands, NJ Grimaldi’s opened in 2010 and has been getting good reviews locally.

I tried it last week with a friend who knows her pizza and we both agreed Grimaldi’s in Highlands is worth a visit. The crust is nicely charred, pretty thin, but thick enough at the edges. A slice just passes the fold test. It might have been a little wet because onions were one of the toppings. The crust itself is a little on the bland side. It could use some salt. The tomato sauce is simple and the mozzarella fresh. Altogether, a very good pie.

There’s table service next to the full bar (Victory IPA on tap) and restaurant seating in the back. Beyond pizza, the menu includes calzones, salads, a few basic appetizers, typical pasta and a couple of chicken entrees, along with daily specials. The meatballs on the pizza were excellent; a good sign for the entrees.

Review

The Landmark is one of those Jersey spot’s that’s very familiar. Inside the seemingly small, red-shingled house with a white picket fence alongside Route 10, there is enough room for a full bar, wooden booths and tables, at least eight television screens, and a snug kitchen serving solid bar food. The waitresses are friendly, the bartenders know people’s names, and the locals are happy. You might have eaten there growing up. If you haven’t been recently, it’s time to go back.

A very good blue-collar burger

Go for the pub-style burgers and bar-pie pizzas. Neither is the best available in New Jersey, but both are better than most. The Landmark’s burger is recommended by many in the know around Essex County and it is the reason the restaurant has been on my burger list of places to try. The half-pound “Jersey Giant” burger is cooked to order with barely a crust to it, and served on a soft sesame seed bun. A little too much bun for my taste, but it’s a very good blue-collar burger. Not too fancy, with plenty of toppings to choose from. My choice: jalapenos and cheddar cheese.

Cheeseburger Pizza

I didn’t expect The Landmark’s pizza to make EthnicNJ’s list. In fact, I was scared when my daughter ordered a Cheeseburger Pizza. Normally, that kind of frou-frou pizza topping is forbidden in my family. To my pleasant surprise, The Landmark makes very good thin crust bar pies. They pass the fold test, are not too greasy, and the crust has some flavor. No char on the bottom, but altogether tasty. Don’t tell anyone, but I like the Cheeseburger Pizza. It is essentially a regular cheese pie with little meatballs, and a hint of cheddar on top of the mozzarella and tomato sauce. The pizza here is not quite as good as Star Tavern‘s thin crust, but The Landmark is not as crowded either.

I will definitely go back the The Landmark for the pizza, the burgers, and of course, the Jersey atmosphere.

Review

British food is hard to find in New Jersey. Fish and chips can be had in various forms at Irish pubs and elsewhere. There are a few explicitly British spots scattered around the Garden State serving savory pies, scones and bangers and mash. “Gastropubs” serving high quality, creative and locally sourced British food are unheard of in this former colony.

Modeled after London’s The Eagle and April Bloomfield’s Spotted Pig, New Jersey’s “first gastropub” offers “a laid-back atmosphere with food that’s taken seriously,” according to owners Bradley and Laurie Boyle. The menu isn’t predominantly British, but Salt Gastropub combines food, drink and atmosphere for a unique spot that successfully captures the gastro spirit, if not the cuisine.

Mushroom Risotto

Summer camp is our annual opportunity to visit Sussex County in Northwestern New Jersey. Byram – the “Township of Lakes” – is home to Salt. You might drive right by the unassuming pale blue building on Route 206 South if you’re not looking for it. Deceptively plain looking from the outside (look for the bicycle hanging from the sign), step inside to find a comfortable bar and dining room that gives the “pub” vibe an American twist.

Food and drink get equal billing at Salt. We were most impressed by Salt’s extensive beer list, with plenty of interesting brews on tap, and PBR all the time. After a sampling, we enjoyed the Cricket Hill Jersey Summer Breakfast Ale (Fairfield, NJ) and Great Divide Colette Farmhouse Ale (Colorado). Bottles range from Ayinger Brauweiss (Germany) to Rogue Dead Guy (Oregon).

The food menu, as eclectic as the decor, includes Balbriggan Salmon, a Fish Taco, Bangers and Mash, Risotto and a Guinness creme brulee.

Fish & Chips

Winners for us are the Goat (cheese) Croquettes appetizer, delicious with a raspberry balsamic reduction, and the risotto of the day, a creamy rosemary risotto with chicken and portobello mushrooms. The fish and chips, tilapia when we visited, is decent, but a far cry from the flaky battered haddock or cod served on malt vinegar-soaked London newspapers. The Salt burger - pub style served with Guinness braised onions on the side – is a good burger but not spectacular. The fish taco, essentially fish taco ingredients on a plate, is disappointing. (For an excellent, constructed, fish taco, I would head to Hoboken.) Ironically, the dishes we tried all could have used more salt.

Overall, the beer is excellent and the food is above average with some distinctive options. Service is very friendly and there’s live music on weekends. It ain’t modern British cuisine, but Salt Gastropub puts out solid food in a mellow setting with cool people. Definitely worth a visit or a short detour north of Route 80.

Links

The New York Times
WSJ.com

Irresistible!

Update

- Arturo’s meatball sandwich – on that delicious brick oven bread – has become one of my favorite food groups. Still haven’t tried the reservations-only Saturday night tasting menu at this uber-popular spot. Even longer waiting list since this Spring’s James Beard “Best New Rising Chef” nomination for Dan Richer.

Update – September 2010

We had dinner here yesterday. Since Arturo’s is just around the corner, I’m rooting for these guys to succeed. The “Osteria” dinner menu and specials feature pasta, salads, cured meats and a few small plates, emphasizing seasonal, local ingredients. Still a mixed review, but promising changes are underway, and I’ve found my new go-to source for Italian bread.

My wife and I tried the pastas this time; the kids had pizza. The pasta itself  is very good, nicely al dente. The pancetta, red onion and tomato sauce on the Pasta Pancia is flavorful, but oily. The Cavatelli Siciliani (chiles, garlic, capers, anchovies and pine nuts) tastes fine, but could use stronger chiles and more anchovies. Pasta portions are large. Even I didn’t finish mine. What really stood out on this visit was one of the blackboard specials – bruschetta with ricotta, olive oil and pink salt, served on Arturo’s own freshly-baked Italian bread – absolutely delicious. The bread has a crispy, lightly charred crust, with just the right amount of soft chewiness inside. Tastes wonderful. They’ve nailed the bread recipe. Loaves are available to go.

Stealing some Bianco pizza off my son’s plate, I sill prefer the “traditional” pizza crust here, which is improving. In fact, in a letter to customers attached to the pizza box (kudos for communication), the owners announce the discontinuation of delivery service (because “the quality of our food is vastly compromised”), the development of a new pizza dough recipe (which “will eventually replace our current styles of dough and crust”), and a transition to dinnertime table service. All welcome changes. Table service in particular is sorely needed. The current system – a server describes the specials at your table and serves the food, but you have to go up to the crowded counter to order it, all in a very tight dining room – doesn’t work well. Any way to knock down a wall for more space?

Arturo’s is an ambitious, steadily improving neighborhood restaurant. There is a Saturday night tasting menu that we need to try (without the kids).

Noteworthy:  The owner deserves credit for adopting eco-friendly pizza boxes, and taking the uncommon step of explaining why in a video on the restaurant’s website. Nice example of local corporate responsibility.

Review – March 2010

Arturo’s is trying hard with its brick oven pizzas, and they put out decent pies. All in all, it’s the best pizza I’ve had so far in Maplewood – headquarters of EthnicNJ.com. Fresh toppings and a solid sauce. But the crust just doesn’t do it for me. The thin crust is too thin and the “traditional” crust is missing something. Not sure what, but other places, like my all time favorite De Lucia’s and nearby Star Tavern in Orange get more flavor into their crusts. Might be the age of the ovens – Arturo’s are just too young. If you go for pizza, eat it there, fresh out of the oven. The pizza doesn’t travel well.

Since we moved to town, Arturo’s has transformed itself from a pizza joint into a cozy BYO restaurant serving both pizza and well made Italian dishes.

Links

Baristanet
Maplewood Patch
New York Times
Off the Broiler

Review

Guest review by Debbie Ronca of Freakgirl.com

“Located in Beach Haven on Long Beach Island, Chicken or the Egg (aka The Chegg) is an Island institution.

It’s open 24 hours and serves American fare, including breakfast at any time. You can get anything from sandwiches to fried fish to Belgian waffles.

However, the Chegg is famous for its hot wings. With sauces ranging from mild to ludicrous, there’s a flavor for everyone. If you’re daring, you can take the same challenge featured on Man vs. Food — try to eat 12 ludicrous wings in 15 minutes. The staff actually warned us against trying the ludicrous sauce, saying it would ruin our taste buds for our food later. I went with ”bee sting,” also very high on the hot scale. Perfect if you love heat.”

Links

Trazzler

Review

You won’t find many biergartens in Jersey like Zeppelin Hall. Honestly, EthnicNJ has only found one German-style beer garden in the Garden State. (Know of others? Please share.)

Zeppelin Hall, next to the Hudson-Bergen Jersey Avenue light rail stop in Jersey City (four blocks from the Grove Street PATH), is a very large space,inside and out. Inside, there are two bars and many tables. Outside, there are picnic tables with umbrellas in a very spacious patio, with its own set of beer taps. On a Sunday afternoon, there were plenty of families with young kids enjoying the patio.

Cheese-Filled Bratwurst

On tap, you’ll find plenty of fine American (Abita, Magic Hat, Ommegang), Belgian (Leffe, Palm), British (Boddington’s, Newcastle), Irish (Smithwick’s, Guinness) and German (Hacker-Pschorr, Spaten, Warsteiner) beers. Order a mug, a liter, or a pitcher. The Hofbräu Oktoberfest and Leine’s Sunset Wheat were excelllent when we visited with the hardy FreeWalkers recently. A liter mug of wheat beer on a hot summer day is just what the doctor ordered.

The German food on the menu is limited to soft pretzels, various specialty sausages served with kraut and fries, and a few “Bavarian Classics” (schnitzel, spaetzle and sauerbraten). The impressively large sausages (insert wiener reference) taste pretty good and go well with the beer.

Go for the beer, like most people, or for the German sausages, what’s the wurst that can happen?

Links

BeerAdvocate
TheBokenOnline.com
The New York Times

Leine’s Sunset Wheat