Stella and her empanadas

Review

Empanadas on their way to the oven

Many ethnic cuisines feature some form of empanada - the stuffed pastry, literally “wrapped in bread” - common throughout the Americas and beyond. Think Italian calzone, British pasty, Indian samosa, and Jamaican patty, just to name a few. I first tasted a Latin American empanada in Costa Rica, where they are meat- or cheese-filled, made with cornmeal and fried until the dough is crispy and the insides steaming. Break one open, add a shot of hot sauce, and you’ve got a perfect snack. In South America, Argentinians are empanada connoisseurs, with many regional and even local versions. Argentine empanadas are typically flaky wheat pastries, savory or sweet, that are baked instead of fried. Empanadas filled with ground beef, egg and raisins are one popular combination.

The rich empanada culture of Argentina helps explain the extensive menu at  Stella’s Empanadas & Argentine Grill in Kearny, NJ. Stella, from Argentina’s third-largest city, Rosario, makes more than twenty empanada varieties, both savory and sweet, all from scratch. In fact, you can watch her and her daughter make the empanadas behind the counter. They prepare and roll out large discs of dough, brush on an egg wash, add the filling and pop them in the oven to bake. The results are flaky, slightly sweet, half-moon pastries with tasty fillings. Stella’s empanadas are quite large and not overstuffed. Varieties when we visited included Western Omelette, Beef & Potato, Chicken, Sausage & Peppers, Broccoli & Cheddar. We tried a few different kinds, all very good. My favorites were the Calabrese (roasted peppers, tomato, mozzarella cheese with a garlic/parsley sauce) and the Spinach, Mushroom & Onions. You might also try a dessert empanadas – baked apple, peach or pineapple. At $2 a piece, or $17 for a dozen, you can eat very well here on the cheap.

Stella’s also serves burgers, sides (the “Chimi-chimi Fries” – covered with chimichurri – sound good), and some daily specials like Steak Milanesa, Chicken Francaise and stuffed peppers. There are about six tables in the small storefront shop. Stella’s does a brisk take out business. Stella is happy to take special orders, and will even make empanada varieties not on the menu if you call ahead.

Review

New Jersey's Best Sandwich?

Hamburgão is a quirky chain serving over-the-top sandwiches probably unlike anything you’ve ever eaten, unless you’ve been to Brazil or live near one of the three New Jersey locations. (The other two are in Newark’s Ironbound at 288 Lafayette Street and 329 Ferry Street.)

The Brazilian sanduíches at Kearny’s Hamburgão come pretty close to sandwich perfection in my book: multi-layered, but not overstuffed; contrasting textures and flavors that come together in a surprising way; and served on bread that doesn’t overwhelm the fillings. The signature Hamburgão Beef, served on a soft Brazilian bun, is a masterpiece, layered with grilled steak, a slice of presunto (Brazilian ham), melted mozzarella, a fried egg, bacon, corn kernels (surprisingly sweet), potato sticks (surprisingly crunchy), lettuce, tomato and mayo. Add a shot of hot sauce, squeeze it all together for a big bite, and enjoy one of the most powerfully flavorful sandwiches in all of Jersey (or anywhere else). In the words of food blogger Jason Perlow (Off the Broiler), the sandwich is “a veritable giant in the annals of sandwichdom.” The variety in this one sandwich is like eating breakfast, lunch and dinner all at once, and the calorie count probably comes pretty close. Fast for a while if you must, this sandwich is worth it.

Bolinho de Mandioca, Pão de Queijo

This half lunch counter, half burger joint with a bright orange color scheme serves multiple hot sandwich variations with chicken, sirloin and cheese. No typical American burgers here, the Hamburgão Beef and its brethren broaden the burger category entirely. Not to be outdone, Hamburgão’s Brazilian hot dog (cachorrão) comes with corn, green peas, grated cheese, those potato sticks again, mayo and “red sauce.” For something only slightly lighter, try Hamburgão’s large and chewy version of Pão de Quiejio, the popular Brazilian cheese bread balls. Other savory pastries include meat-filled  croquets and empanadas. Coffee, breakfasts, salads, fruit smoothies and desserts (flan, fruit mousses, rice pudding) round out the menu.

Hamburgão’s logo is an angry dog dressed as a chef holding a sandwich on a tray. Look for it if you want to try some heavy duty Brazilian comfort food in Jersey.

Links

The Mango Lassie
Off the Broiler
Serious Eats

© 2010 EthnicNJ.com

Review – March 2010

Make sure you’re hungry when you arrive at Oh! Calamares. The portions are huge. We barely put a dent in the mountain of arroz chaufa (Peruvian fried rice). Start with the Choritos a la Chalaca (New Zealand mussels topped with vinegar-marinated onions and Peruvian large-kernel corn) or any of the ceviches. There is a good version of fried yuca with Huancaina sauce. I had the Picante de Mariscos, a delicious bowl of shellfish in a yellow chili pepper cream sauce.

Oh! Calamares is a festive neighborhood spot with a full bar. Friendly service in both English and Spanish. We went with the kids on a Friday night around 7 pm without a reservation and got a table right away. By the time we left, there was a wait and some musicians were setting up for live music.

Links

New Jersey Monthly